A power outage in July is uncomfortable. A power outage in January, in a Pacific Northwest home where the heat runs on an electric furnace, is a different situation — one that can become dangerous for vulnerable household members within hours if temperatures drop far enough.
The Pacific Northwest isn’t the upper Midwest. Most homes here weren’t built with severe cold in mind because, most of the time, temperatures stay manageable. But an ice storm, a major windstorm, or a Cascadia earthquake during winter can take the power out for days. Knowing how to keep your household warm — safely — is a practical skill that belongs in every PNW household’s preparedness plan.
First: The Non-Negotiable Safety Rule
Carbon monoxide kills. It is colorless and odorless, and the devices that produce it — generators, propane heaters, camp stoves, charcoal grills — are the leading cause of non-fire-related carbon monoxide deaths during power outages.
Nothing that burns fuel should be operated indoors or in an attached garage. This includes:
- Gas-powered generators
- Camp stoves and backpacking stoves
- Charcoal and propane grills
- Kerosene heaters without proper indoor-safe certification
- Vehicles left running in an attached garage
Install battery-operated carbon monoxide detectors on each level of your home and test them when you change smoke detector batteries. During an extended outage, this detector may be one of the most important things in your house.
Option 1: Stay Warm With What You Have
Before you think about supplemental heat sources, consider how much warmth you can retain with basic insulation and layering. Pacific Northwest homes typically lose heat gradually, not immediately. In many cases, a well-insulated home with heavy curtains and active household warmth management can stay above 50°F for 12–24 hours even in mild-to-moderate outdoor temperatures.
- Close interior doors — concentrate everyone in one or two rooms to maintain warmth with body heat
- Hang heavy blankets over windows and exterior doors — single-pane windows lose heat fast; a blanket makes a meaningful difference
- Layer clothing — wool and synthetic base layers retain warmth even when wet; cotton does not
- Use your sleeping bags — if you have cold-weather sleeping bags, use them; even in an indoor environment, they dramatically reduce how much supplemental heat you need
- Sleep together — one warm room, everyone in it, reduces the heating challenge significantly
Option 2: Indoor-Safe Supplemental Heating
Propane Radiant Heaters (Indoor-Certified Models)
Certain propane heaters are designed and certified for indoor use — specifically, models with an Oxygen Depletion Sensor (ODS) that automatically shuts off if oxygen levels drop. Mr. Heater’s Buddy series is the most commonly used example and is rated for indoor use in well-ventilated spaces.
Even with a certified indoor model, maintain some ventilation — crack a window slightly when operating — and keep your CO detector active. Propane canisters: a 1-lb cylinder lasts approximately 5–6 hours on low setting; a 20-lb tank lasts significantly longer and can be connected via hose adapter.
Wood Stove or Fireplace
If your home has a wood stove or traditional fireplace, this is your primary winter backup. Store at least one cord of seasoned firewood. A wood stove can heat a significant portion of a home efficiently; a traditional fireplace is less efficient but still functional in an emergency.
Annual inspection and cleaning by a certified chimney professional is not optional — creosote buildup is a fire hazard. Make sure you have this done before winter each year.
Pellet Stove (with Battery Backup)
Pellet stoves require electricity for the auger and ignition. Many models accept a battery backup or UPS (uninterruptible power supply). If you have a pellet stove, invest in the battery backup unit — without it, the stove is inoperative during an outage.
Option 3: The Generator Route
A generator can power your electric furnace or a space heater, but there are important rules:
- Always run generators outdoors, at least 20 feet from windows and doors, with the exhaust directed away from the house
- Use a transfer switch or interlock kit — plugging a generator directly into a wall outlet (backfeeding) is illegal and can electrocute utility workers
- Size the generator to your actual needs: a 2,000-watt inverter generator can run a space heater and charge devices; a whole-home furnace requires significantly more capacity
- Store fuel properly and safely — rotate it with a fuel stabilizer; gasoline degrades in 30–60 days
Portable Power Stations
Battery-based portable power stations (Goal Zero, EcoFlow, Jackery, and similar brands) are increasingly viable for moderate power needs. A large station (1,000–2,000Wh) can power a small efficient space heater for several hours, keep phones and medical devices charged, and run LED lighting. They produce no fumes and are safe indoors. The limitation is runtime — they’re supplemental, not a whole-home solution.
Know When to Leave
If indoor temperatures drop below 55°F and you have infants, elderly household members, or people with medical conditions that are affected by cold, consider leaving. Hotels in nearby communities may still have power. Friends or family in a less-affected area may be an option. Staying safe sometimes means going somewhere warmer rather than waiting it out.
This decision is easier if you’ve identified your options in advance. Know which hotels are 30–60 miles away. Know which family members are a reasonable drive from your home. Don’t make that list for the first time at 2 a.m. with a cold house.
Have questions about a specific heating setup — natural gas stoves, radiant floor heat, or heat pumps? Drop them in the comments. For more on power outage preparedness generally, see our full power outage preparedness guide.